Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Rio Claro river reserve

Río Claro

Río Claro reserve is around four hours drive from Medellin and is a popular destination for locals to enjoy rafting, caving and trekking through the reserve.

There is a hostal within the reserve which is economical and allows you to stay close to all the attractions in the park.

There is an easy trail from near the hostal restaurant that follows the river.

The river from the trail


The trail winds past limestone formations

A cave on the trail


and along the river.

Río Claro


Another part of Río Claro

And I was lucky enough to spot a diamond backed viper - one of the most poisonous snakes in Colombia.

Well camouflaged Diamond backed Viper

Also along the trail are several caves which can be explored with a guide from the hotel ($A10).

The cave exit accross the river

The trail to the entrance to the caves is a long and steep trail through the jungle to the entrance.

The cave entrance

The cave itself is a long underground trail with sections that require swimming.

Walking through the cave

And the exit of the cave requires swimming back accross the river after climbing down from the cave.

The cave exit


Another popular tour to do in Rio Claro is to take a raft down the river.

Rafting

There is a small amount of whitewater but it is not overly challenging.

Small whitewater

The river flows past many limestone formations

Stalactites

More limestone caverns

And plenty of opportunities to swim.

A swimming hole

Before heading back down a calm, scenic section of the river to to pickup point back to the hotel.

Rio Claro


Monday, November 7, 2016

El Peñol and Guatape: The rock and the lake

Guatape church


The town of Guatape is a small village just outside of Medellin and is a popular weekend destination for locals due to its proximity to a large lake.

The town maintains its traditional architecture, with narrow cobblestone streets and colourful buildings.

The streets of Guatape

Traditional buildings in Guatape

Just outside of the town is a giant volcanic rock - El Peñol. There are 275 steep steps to the top

El Peñol

from which you get great views of the lake and surrounding valleys.

The lake from El Peñol

Another view from the top

Looking over the lake

Both Guatape and El Peñol ate easily reached from Terminal Norte in Medellin and is an easy day trip to enjoy the lake and the rock.

The lake and valley from El Peñol

Medellin - The city of eternal spring

Medellin city

Medellin is Colombia's second biggest city and is one of the most organised and clean Colombian cities I have visited.

The city has an efficient metro which makes the city very easy to navigate. The other thing that is great about Medellin is the climate - it's known as the "City of eternal spring" because of its mild sunny climate.

In the centre of the city is Parque Berrío which is one of the major metro stations in Medellin and is close to many tourist attractions such as the sculptures in Plaza Botero.

Sculptures in the plaza

And the Medellin Cathedral.

Medellin Cathedral

It is also easy to access the teleferico which leads to the nature reserve of Parque Avrí - Take the A line towards Niquía and get off at the Metro cable. From there you take the teleferico to the end of the line where you change to the tourist teleferico to the park - you have to pay a separate fare for the park teleferico.

The teleferico to the park

The ride to the park takes around 15 minutes and gives good views of the city and of the park.

Medellin from the teleferico

In the park there are several trails and a canopy course (which, despite my dislike of heights was a lot of fun).

A trail in Parque Avrí

An old salt mine on the trail

Also easily accessible (by taxi or bus) from Parque Berrío is the little model village of Pueblo Paisa.

Situated on top of Cerro Nutibara, the village attempts to create a colonial Colombian village. 

Pueblo Paisa

Also from the hill you get great views of the beautiful city of Medellin.

Panoramic view of Medellin

Friday, October 28, 2016

San Andrés - A Colombian island paradise

San Andrés beach

San Andrés is a small island in the Caribbean off the coast of Nicaragua. Although it is part of Colombia, it has a very distinct carribean culture - including its own Creole language.
The island is relatively underdeveloped with only a few large expensive resorts. The town is mostly just a laid back local place.

San Andrés town

The island is known for it's beautiful blue waters and white sand beaches.

San Andrés from the boat to Johnny Cay

And it's excellent snorkelling, especially on its nearby coral quays.

Boats with Johnny Cay In the background

Johnny Cay

To get to the main coral quay (Johnny cay) you can take a boat from the main beach (tickets are sold from the yellow transport co-op building).

It's better value to buy the trip that goes to the acuario Island too which is better for snorkeling.

Fish at Acuario Island - my phone doesn't take great photos underwater

As well as Johnny cay and Acuario Island, there is another coral quay easily reached from the main town. Just outside of the village of San Luis is the excellent snorkelling spot of Rocky Cay.

San Luis beach

Rocky Cay

You can easily walk out the 250m through the shallow water to the island

Walking out to Rocky Cay

where there is excellent snorkelling around the reef and the sunken ships that are nearby.

A Rusting ship

Further up the coast is a short nature trail through the mangroves which is filled with birds and other animals. 

The walkway

The river through the mangroves

Mud crab in its burrow

After many trips out snorkelling and trekking through mangroves, San Andrés is also the perfect place to relax on the beach with a cocktail or two - including the (in)famous Coco Loco, an incendiary mix of liquor served in a coconut.

One of the many beach side bars

San Andrés is the perfect place in Colombia to relax and enjoy the carribean without the stress of some of the larger cities. 

Another part of San Andrés beach

It's beautiful beaches, laid back culture and small town feel made it the perfect place to relax before continuing my journey away from the coast - inland to the city of Medellin.

San Andreas from the air

Sunday, October 23, 2016

Cities of the coast: Cartagena

Cartagena's old city

Cartagena is a colonial city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It is best known for its old city and colonial architecture. The city itself has an interesting history of colonisation, pirates, privateers and battles amongst all the colonial powers.

Overseeing the old city is the imposing fort of San Felipe de Bajaras

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

This enormous fort protected the old city of Cartagena from privateer attacks, as well as attacks from the French (a successful attack) and the British and colonial US forces (an unmitigated disaster). Interestingly, the father of George Washington participated in the unsuccessful British attack.

One of the many cannons used to repel the British attack.

When you explore the fort's defences it is easy to see why it was so difficult to take and why the French attack was only successful due to the cunning of their commander, the French intelligence about the lack of defenders in the fort at the time and the utter incompetence of the defenders (forgetting to destroy the wooden stairway that allowed entry to the fort).

The entry showing the reconstructed stairway (red)

The fort also has an extensive number of tunnels that were used for transporting troops and ammunition between the many batteries in the fort.

One of the many tunnels

The tower from one of the batteries

The South battery in the tower.

The old city of Cartagena is also surrounded by city walls with an impressive display of cannons.

The city walls

And enclosed within these walls are narrow colonial streets

A street in the old city


Colonial churches

San Pedro church

The Cathedral

San Domingo church

Plazas

Plaza de los coches

And of course the city walls and defences.

City walls overlooking the harbour

The clock gate

Just outside the city walls are even more narrow colonial streets.

Streets in the Getsemani barrio

Often adorned with street art

Street art in Getsemani

Further afield is the modern part of Cartagena, which is just like any modern city and, although the beaches are nice, the constant harassment from aggressive street sellers makes a trip to Cartagena beach quite unpleasant.

Cartagena beach

Much better to enjoy a beer and the sunset in one of the bars on the walls of the old city.

View at night from one of the bars on the wall