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The hills behind Tilcara - the stones spell out "Bienvenidos a Tilcara"
Tilcara is a small town about an hour North from Purmamarca. It is the site of a large pre-hispanic village called Pucará.
The ruins are about 2 km from the town centre on top of a hill overlooking the river valley.
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The view from Pucará
Many of the ruins have been rebuilt for the tourists but on the lower part of the hill the ruins are original, including a graveyard
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The circular graves where mummies were buried
And the foundations and walls of houses.
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A part of the ruins
The structure in the centre of the ruins looks like it is some sort of religious temple - but is in fact merely a monument to the archaeologists who first excavated the site.
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The monument
On the other side of Tilcara is another pleasant 2 km walk to the Laguna de los Patos. The lagoon itself is not all that impressive
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The lagoon
But the walk takes you through some of the farming communities around Tilcara.
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A herd of donkeys
Further afield from Tilcara is the little town of Maimara.
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Maimara
The town can be reached by following the river valley - however there has been a lot of construction along the river which obscures the road and makes it easy to get very lost (like I did) and there are few "bridges" (ie. Logs and boards) across the river.
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The river road
However, the scenery through the farms along the walk is quite pretty.
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Farmland with coloured mountains
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Farmland by the river
Back in Tilcara, I went to one of the peñas in a bar across from my hostel. Unlike the peñas in Salta which were mainly for the tourists, the ones in Tilcara are very local affairs with much music and dancing.
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The whole bar was dancing (yes, including me - considering the band made an effort to call out the only Australian in the bar)
And even the local kids get involved jamming with the band.
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This kid really shredded the pan pipes
The peña went well into the night which made the next day's trekking to the Gargantua del Diablo harder than it should've been.
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The start of the trail
This steep 8km trek leads to a big canyon that was formed by tectonic plate movement rather than water. The trail leads through desert past countless giant cacti.
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The trail through the desert
And eventually leads to the canyon.
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The canyon
It's hard to capture how deep the canyon is through photos, but this sign may give an indication.
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It's very high
At the bottom of the canyon there is a short 1km trek up the canyon floor to a waterfall.
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The canyon floor
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The waterfall
The total round trip is about 18km, and after the peña the night before, I was ready to relax with some local food before heading to the next Northern town: Humahuaca.
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Llama capaccio
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Llama steak
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