Across the Andes to Mendoza

The Andes range from the road

The city of Mendoza is a 7 hour bus trip from Santiago through the Andes range and it is one of South  America's scenic bus journeys.

Heading into the mountains

The road rapidly ascends into the Andes with the higher snow topped peaks a stunning backdrop to the road as it climbs.

The snow capped high peaks

The road then goes through 28 narrow switchbacks which can be a little dizzying from the very front top deck seats in the bus.

The switchbacks from curve number 20

The road continues through the mountains until it reaches the border with Argentina. 

Farewell Chile

The border itself is actually crossed while heading through a tunnel, and the passport and border control is at Puenta Inca - some kilometres after entering Argentina.

The tunnel that crosses the border

Welcome to Argentina

I had heard many horror stories about the border crossing, but for me it was extremely short and efficient - taking a mere hour, which was a nice amount of time to stretch my legs before the next leg of the journey.

Descending from the high Andes

I had heard that the Argentinian side of the bus trip wasn't as scenic, however I found the descent through the steppe every bit as beautiful as the ascent into the Andes.

The Argentinian steppe

A river flowing from the Andes

Mist comes down over the steppe

The steppe then gives way to the vineyards of Mendoza....

The first of many vineyards that I passed on the way into Mendoza

Central Lima and Cerro San Cristobal

Plaza de Armas

Lima's central square, Plaza de Armas, is surrounded by the city's important buildings: the presidential palace and the Cathedral.

The Presidential Palace

The Plaza has the feel of those in Spain rather than those in South America as it is completely surrounded by buildings - however the ever present traffic serves to remind you that you are in Lima.

On one side of the Plaza is the Lima Cathedral.

Lima Cathedral

There are free tours available inside the Cathedral to show its impressive chapels and tombs.

The Altar

The tomb of Fransisco Pizarro

A chapel in the Cathedral

Another Chapel

Under the church is a crypt which contains the graves of the various bishops of Lima 

 

The plaques marking the vaults of the Bishops

It also the graves of children whose families donated to the construction of the Cathedral.

Children's coffins in the crypt

And a very creepy ossuary.

The ossuary in Lima Cathedral

Which is in stark contrast to the ornate reliquary under which it is built.

The reliquary of St Turibius

The Cathedral is currently undergoing reconstruction after a recent earthquake, so unfortunately some of the areas were off limits to the tour, but it was still a fascinating look at the history of the Cathedral.

Back outside in the main Plaza there are several tours that take you to Cerro San Cristobal. Many tourists take taxis at S/. 50 (around $A20) but if you don't mind a crowded mini bus there are tours that get you there for a mere S/. 5 (around $A2). In addition, the bus tour gives a running commentary (in Spanish) of the various sights on the way.

Looking up towards San Cristobal

The road to the hill is extremely narrow and travels through some of the poorer suburbs of Lima.

The narrow road

Some of the less affluent suburbs of Lima

At the top of the hill is a giant cross where people pray and light candles.

The cross at the top of Cerro San Cristobal

There are also several lookouts which give a panoramic view of the city out to the ocean.

Lima, with the ocean in the distance

The trip to San Cristobal through central Lima and the views of the city from the top show just how different the affluent and touristy suburbs of Barranco and (especially) Miraflores are to central Lima and surrounds - it would be easy as a tourist to get a false impression of the city if you were merely to stay in the Miraflores or Barranco area.

Miraflores and Barranco, Lima

Miraflores Lighthouse

Miraflores is a suburb of Lima close to the coast. It is an extremely affluent suburb, totally different to the rest of the city with a large population of expats and tourists. I had it described to me by an expat as a "bubble" in Lima.

The suburb boasts beautiful parks along the top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean. A bike path and walkway follow the entire length of the coast. 

The bike path

The trail passes many different parks with beautiful well kept gardens with spectacular views of the coast.

The coastline from one of the parks

There are also many good restaurants along the trail offering fresh seafood and, of course, cerviche.

Cerviche

Further back from the coastline, close to where Miraflores becomes the suburb of San Isidro, is the archaeological site of Huaca Pucllana. These pre-inca ruins are situated of a well maintained hill in the middle of Miraflores' residential area.

Miraflores from the top of Huaca Pucllana

The complex is enormous and consists of handmade bricks forming a giant pyramid and other structures around the site.

The pyramid showing the individual adobes (bricks)

The site was used for religious ceremonies, including human sacrifice.

The "courtyard" under which were buried over 20 young girls who were sacrificed

Later peoples used the site to bury their warriors.

A replica of the mummies that were buried here

Next to the site is a fine dining restaurant, with an outdoor area that gives diners a view of Huaca Pucllana lit up at night,

Huaca Pucllana at night

as well as a fine dining take on traditional foods.

Llama, fine dining style

In contrast to the somewhat posh nature of Miraflores, further down the coast is the much more hipster suburb of Barranco.

It must be hipster, it has its own craft brewery

Here can be found many backpacker hostels and bars alongside many cheap and cheerful restaurants. Many students and artists live in Barranco, so it has a thriving arts scene.

 

Public sculpture in Barranco

Including murals

A mural on the path to the beach

And street art.

Street art in Barranco

Street art on an underpass

From Barranco you can also access the beach via a walkway lined with hostels and restaurants.

The walkway to the beach

The beach at Barranco from the walkway

The suburbs of Miraflores and Barranco are extremely different from each other (despite being next to each other) in their style, however despite appearances they are not at all like other parts of Lima as they both are quite affluent and touristy. However despite this, both suburbs have their own points of interest that make them a unique experience in Lima.

Cerro Santa Lucia and Santiago Market

Cerro Santa Lucia is a small hill in Downtown Santiago. The park consists of many gardens and a castle is built on top of the hill. The lower areas of the hill contain beautiful terraces and fountains.

Lower terrace

Stairs continue up the hill to another terrace and fountain.

upper terrace

From the terraces the road winds around through the gardens until it reaches the Castle Hidalgo

Circular garden with the Castle gates in the background

The Castle was a defensive fort in the 1800's with several castle gates and cannon.

Gate to the old fort

The area was later redeveloped, adding the lower terraces and a chapel to the hill.

The chapel

On the top of the hill are several lookouts overlooking downtown Santiago.

Downtown Santiago

Close by to Cerro Santa Lucia  are several other attractions. The Galleria de los Bellas Artes is a small, yet interesting gallery with a grand entrance hall.

The entrance hall

And after enjoying the artwork, it's a short walk to the central market. 

Mercado Central

The central market is a huge complex selling a large variety of fresh fruit and vegetables and, of course, there are several restaurants selling freshly cooked produce.

This includes traditional Chilean food such as Pernil (marinated pork shoulder)

Pernil

and terremotos - a local cocktail consisting of a scoop of pineapple ice cream and pipeño (a type of wine tasting similar to a dry sherry).

A Terremoto (with the rest of the Pernil in the background)

It's one of those drinks that sounds like it really shouldn't work... but it's strangely delicious. However, they are also deceptively strong and trust me, more than one of these is not a good idea...